Chile (4)

It was cloudy in Santiago during the whole week, but it rarely rains there, it’s just a combination of clouds and pollution. It was actually good because walking around under a hot noon sun would be very unpleasant.

But the last day reserved a surprise: clear blue skies since dawn and we still needed to go to the Cerros (hills) Santa Lucía and San Cristóbal. We took the subway in a long-weekend Santiago – apparently October 31 is a holiday in the country, and people started to crowd the subways and taking the highways out of the city the day before. The city was definitely emptier and better to walk around, although many places were closed, except for the outdoor activities, and we started in Cerro Santa Lucía.

One of the many beautiful views in Cerro Santa Lucía.

This one is usually done on foot and the way up is pretty mild, until you get to the top… The place is very peaceful, a drop of greenery in a highway-filled city. The steps to the top were very treacherous and slippery, people must be careful when visiting the place. As you make your way to the very top, the steps are just built around the volcanic rocks and are protected have very thin and rusty banisters around them. I wanted to get to the top but I just couldn’t, every step I took just made me freeze a little bit more and at the end I gave up. But that’s okay, I made it to the top of Cerro San Cristóbal…

View from Cerro Santa Lucía. The weather definitely contributed to the amazing views…

Midway to the top, with places to sit down, drink some water, enjoy the views and rest and build up courage to the top.

This is where stairs start to become treacherous. It’s the gateway to “climb up at your own risk.”

Statue of a native man. I tried to get some information online about it but couldn’t find it… Open for suggestions!

One of the many steps to the top. This one I dared climb up. I don’t know what happened with the camera, I remember taking MANY more pictures but they weren’t there…

Pathway to the top, surrounded by volcanic rocks

This part is called Neptune Terrace. There is a beautiful fountain where you can throw a coin and make a wish.

Another shot of the fountain.

“Magic Fountain”

My wish…

Crossing the avenue there is an artisanal market and I bought a set of shot glasses to drink my two bottles of pisco sour with my post-grad classmates. There was a parade (which looked like a protest at first) praising Jesus Christ! “Jesus has arrived! Get ready!” they would chant.

Parade for Jesus. Hey, whatever makes you happy…

People walking for Jesus apparently…

Afterwards we walked around barrio Lastarria, which is right next to Cerro Santa Lucía and close to Universidad Catolica subway station and a walking distance from barrio Bella Vista and Salvador station, but on our 5th day and this one being under the sun, it was really tiresome. There was a little restaurant square and we ended up having lunch at Nolita. Great place, great food, but pricier than the rest of the city.

Beers at Nolita. Pricey but good. This is Cerveza Austral, produced in the south of Chile and excellent! I drank the blue label one (Calafate Ale.)

Walking through Parque Forestal, we headed towards barrio Bella Vista to Cerro San Cristóbal to try to go up the hill via Funicular (my friend had told me it hadn’t been working a while ago, so if it weren’t we would just go back to the hotel). It turned out it WAS working and it was crowded!

Line to board the Funicular, which is the little tram that takes you to the top of the hill. It was around 3 p.m. and probably around 32ºC.

After waiting some 20 minutes, we finally boarded the funicular and up we went. The views were amazing, the breeze was cool and we got to sit down and contemplate the whole city in the shade. I wanted to make my way to very top, which holds a statue of the Virgin Mary. Many steps ahead and my mother decided not to go. I gave my bag with the shot glasses for her to hold and started my way up.

Funicular, waiting to go up.

It’s possible to see very little ice on the top of the mountains. Was there supposed to be more? Climate change? Either way, I wish I had a better camera or were a better photographer.

Statue of Virgin Mary on the top of the hill.

Amphitheatre on Cerro San Cristóbal. Look at the view…

More mountains and great views…

Jesus Christ head in the middle of foliage.

View from the bottom of the amphitheatre. The place is breathtaking!

Way to the top of Cerro San Cristóbal.

Funicular, on my way down.

I was already very tired and didn’t stay at the top for a long time, I just climbed down to meet my mother and buy some water before leaving the Cerro. As we were drinking water, I saw people entering the funicular and presenting the return ticket to the attendant. I wanted to fetch mine and asked my mother ‘Where’s my plastic bag?’ It turns out she left it where she was sitting waiting for me and forgot it, just like she had forgotten her coat at Tea Connection, but there the waitress saw it and gave it to her. I went up those stairs as fast as I could, but all I saw was the empty plastic bag tossed near the spot where she had been sitting. I just lost it…

You know when you just want to get out of the place right away? Having to wait for the flight would be torture. I just wanted to get it over with the trip, go back home and watch Jon Stewart and have a beer. A beer… That’s what had been missing in my life in the last few days… Austral was a great one, but I needed some ten more bottles to cope with the pressure…

But I’ve learned my lesson, never travel with somebody that can’t help out, that doesn’t read maps, makes suggestions, ask questions and is unaware of their surroundings. I’m done with that. If going on holiday means doing extra work, I rather go alone…

But my impressions of Santiago: wonderful city. Big, cosmopolitan, clean. People are friendly and polite. Many, many bars and restaurants to enjoy local and international cuisine. Countless parks, squares and outdoor activities to do. Great local art, and lots of museums and historical buildings to visit. One regret is not spending more time in Valparaíso and Viña de Mal, these are fantastic places to visit and I would recommend spending some three or four days for the both cities. October proved to be a good time of the year to go, as it wasn’t so hot nor so cold, but because of the low humidity the temperature can vary some 20°C during the day. I can’t wait to go back!